81 SUZUKI KATANA GSX SZ 1100
RESTORATION
STAGE 2
DISASSEMBLY- FRONT DAMPERS
Preparation
While the frame, triple clamps & engine mounts are being powder coated it would be a good time to rebuild the front & rear dampers so you can get rolling chassis going when the frame is ready.
The first thing to do is to degrease the parts you will be working on we don't want all the grit and grime spoiling our nice new parts. Be careful when using degreaser as they can contain caustic ingredients which can pit your aluminum parts or cause damage to plastic rubber & paint.
I have found Loctite Yuk Off orange hand cleaner to be an effective degreaser it can be applied with a short bristled brush and then hosed off, another advantage of using Yuk Off is that you can use it on your hands when you finish. With that out of the way the dampers can be disassembled.
Disassembly
I started with the front first as the hard chrome on the stanchion tubes had some slight pitting. It would have been fine after being sanded with some 600 wet & dry using some WD-40 as lubricant as it was above the dust seal and well away from the fork seals. However, I wanted as new or better so when the tubes are removed they will be off to a local Hard chroming business for some electroplating & linishing to bring them back to new.
Before the stanchion tubes are removed from the triple clamps the spring tensioners under the rubber caps should be loosened this will be easier than trying to do it later on.
Spring Tensioner
The first thing to do is to remove the spring tensioner, wrap some cardboard around stanchion tube so it can be clamped vertically in the vice with just enough force to hold the stanchion securely or it could be deformed by the vice, apply a slight downward force against the spring force with the spanner or socket as the last threads exit the stanchion so as to avoid damaging the soft aluminium threads on the tensioner.
Once it is removed tip the fork leg over a container the free piston & spring will fall out allow the oil to drain, the fork may have to be stroked several times to remove all the oil. Repeat the procedure for the other fork leg. The dust seal & snap ring can now be removed.
Damper Rod
To remove the damper rod wrap the outer tube with cardboard and secure it in the vice or if you have a large vice the outer tube can be secured by the caliper mounts.
Sometimes a broom handle pressed against the damper rod will stop it from rotating as the 8mm socket head bolt is removed. This was not the case with these fork legs.
The solution was to make a tool from a 160x12.5mm bolt (12.5mm shaft). It was filed square on the threaded end so it would fit into 1/4 drive socket set extension bar and the hex head was filed down to 18.9mm across the flats to allow it to fit the 12 point head on the damper rod.
This is the Damper rod tool mentioned above.
You will need a long enough extension bar or bars to reach the damper rod with the bolt inserted into the female part of the extension & a gender bender or appropriate socket on the other end of the extension bar to attach the ratchet drive.
Take note of how the oil lock piece & washers are fitted to the damper rod when they are removed the bolt can be reinstalled to hold them in the correct position until it is ready to go back in.
The stanchion tube can now be given a sharp tug to remove it from the outer tube.
The fork seal can now be removed, a large screwdriver with the tip bent over is perfect for this job. If you have not already done so the anti dive units can be removed.
The stanchions are now ready to go to the hardchromer's & the outer tubes can be polished more on that later. Clean and bag all the parts label the bags left an right this is a good habit to get into, plastic bags are cheap don't be stingy here.
Stage 3 - Disassembly Rear Damper >