81 SUZUKI KATANA GSX SZ 1100
RESTORATION
STAGE 7
WHEEL PREPARATION
Tyres
The first thing to do is to remove the tyres if you don't have any tyre levers take them to your local tyre dealer to have them removed.
Axels and discs
Next remove the front & rear axels take note of how all the spacers are arranged, I reassembeled the spacers on the axels in the correct order, some drawings where done on zip lock bags the axels cleaned then placed in the bags for Ron (later on).
Remove the front & rear discs.
Rims
The paint on the rims was the original charchoal colour. The bike I am restoring is a 81 1100 model, seeing as some of these came out with silver rims I decided to strip the charcoal paint.
I applied paint sripper to one side & sat the wheel in the shade, if you put them in the sun the stripper will dry before you have a chance to remove it, if you don't get to it in time & it does dry out hose it down to soften the stripper .
Once the paint has wrinkled put on some gloves & rub them down with a 3M scotchbrite pad this will get most of the paint off. I only use scotchbrite 3M they work better than other pads & last alot longer to boot.
The recesses in the wheel will require their own special attention, wooden kebab sticks will do this job nicely you could use paddle pop sticks or plastic take away forks & knives the important thing is not to scratch the rims.
If there are any spots where the paint is a little stubborn apply some more sripper till all the paint is removed. While the wheels where being prepared the front & rear disks where stripped of paint as well (gloves & scotchbrite again).
Wash the wheels & discs down with some detergent to remove the residual paint stripper & allow them to dry.
Bearings
After the paint had been removed from the wheels & discs the bearings where removed. To do this place the front wheel onto two blocks of wood then tap the bearings out using a iron bar. Start at 12 O'clock go to 6 O'clock then to 9 O'clock then to 3 O'clock so that the bearing is tapped out straight if it becomes skewed tap it straight then continue.
When the first bearing is removed the spacer tube will drop out then the second bearing can be removed. Repeat this procedure on the rear wheel & the sprocket carrier.
After removing the bearings I noticed that the front wheel had a woble in it. So the old bearings were re inserted & it was taken to Laurie Alderton at 2/ 10 Long St 2164 Smithfield NSW Phone: (02) 9609 2889 to have it straightened. The wheel was picked up a week later & it was perfect I am always impressed by his work, he does frame straightening as well.
Painting
The paint used for the wheels was Wattyl Kill rust aluminium epoxy enamel. I was going to mask up the rims then spray them however with the texture on the wheels I found it was easier to brush the paint on resulting in the same finish as if they had been sprayed.
The outer edge & spokes of the rims where lightly polished with Autosol metal polish & some discs cut out of 3M Scotchbrite pads then fitted to the Dremmel.
The front & rear discs where sprayed with Rust Guard satin black epoxy enamel, Wattyl & rust guard is manufactured in the same factory.
New bearings
New bearings where pressed into the front wheel, rear wheel & sprocket carrier.
Sprocket Carrier
The sprocket carrier was rubbed back with a 3M Scotchbrite pad then given a light polish then cleaned of with wax & grease remover & sprayed in 2 pak enamel.
A new sprocket, bolts & lock washers where installed onto the carrier.
The brake discs where checked for thickness & run out, the minimum thickness for the front is 4.5mm with 6mm for the rear maximum run out is 0.3mm, all was within spec so the discs where installed with new lock washers. Axels where installed & new tires where fitted Dunlop Arrowmax GT301F to the front & Dunlop Arrowmax GT501 to the rear. Wheels are now ready. Whoo Hoo.